Demolition Derby
Saturday, June 3rd – Sign-Up deadline is 5:30 PM.
$30 entry fee per class – $30 rider fee
Payouts
STREET STOCK: $2,500, $1,000, $500, $300, $200
COMPACT: $1,000, $500, $300, $200, $100
GUT N GO COMPACT: $1,200, $600, $300, $200, $100
Ten car minimum per class for guaranteed payout.
All Pit Passes $20. Must be 16 to participate (with parental permission).
No bottles or alcohol on the infield – this will be strictly enforced!
For further information call Terry Gross at (217)-242-8742 or Derek Kleidon at (217) 491-7420
Greene County Fair Demolition General Derby Rules
Friday, June 21st. 7 pm at the Greene County Fairgrounds
For any questions, please contact Derek Kleidon at 217-491-7420. Text or call after 5 pm. If there is no answer, leave a message and you will be contacted as soon as possible.
Inspection from 3 pm to 6:40 pm. Cars must be in Tech Line by 6:30 pm, no exceptions. Drivers Meeting will be held at 6:50 pm.
GENERAL RULES
- SAFETY is our number one rule! If we aren’t satisfied with any safety-related issues, you will be given the option to fix the problem or load it back up.
- Officials have the final say. To their discretion, officials can disqualify a car at any time. Anyone not complying with these rules, or not behaving like a rational adult will be escorted out from the event and possibly banned from all future EVENTS. (Our goal is to keep this as a family-friendly event. Remember that kids and future drivers look up to all of you!)
- All drivers MUST be 18-years-old with a valid driver’s license. Drivers 16 and 17-year-olds MUST have parental consent & at least one parent or legal guardian present at sign-in.
- All cages are not only permitted BUT ARE REQUIRED to protect you as much as possible. You will NOT be able to run if we are not satisfied with your safety precautions/cages. Halos aren’t mandatory, BUT ARE STRONGLY recommended but can’t exceed safety cage rules, and this includes working seatbelts/harnesses.
- Both front doors can be skinned with up to 3/16″ from seam to seam, welded shut with up to a 3″ strap in regular stock and compact classes.
- All occupants of the car must wear approved helmets, long pants & shirt.
- All cars must be swept clean; all glass, lights, trim, hazardous objects and spare tires must be removed. Stock gas tanks and batteries MUST be removed and relocated to the driver’s compartment and secured and covered by a rubber mat. No more than 2 automotive batteries may be used in a secure mount/box, and NO MILK CRATES.
- NO 69 AND OLDER LINCOLNS, JEEPS, TRUCKS, HEARSES, EL CAMINOS/ RANCHEROS, IMPERIALS (SUBFRAMES INCLUDED) ARE ALLOWED!
- All vehicles must have a car number clearly displayed on the front doors and roof.
- NO PAINTING OR COATING OF FRAMES IN ANY WAY, SHAPE OR FORM, WE WILL LOAD YOU FOR THIS!
Greene County Fair Stock Demolition Derby Rules
STOCK RULES
REMINDER: NO GRAY AREAS! IF YOU DO NOT SEE IT, DO NOT DO IT!
(1) SAFETY CAGE: 6-point cage ALLOWED, but side bars must stop at the front side of the wheel humps/back door seam. Halo bar not mandatory BUT IS STRONGLY recommended. Halo must be vertical and cannot be used for anything but roof support. You are allowed (6) down tubes to the frame 3″x3″ max: Front two must be even with or behind front inside door seem. Rear two must be in front of rear body mounts on flat part of frame. Center 2 are for driver and passenger protection. Gas tank protector allowed, but no wider than 24″ and must be 3″ from sheet metal. Front cage bar must be 6″ above transmission tunnel and 6″ away from center of dash. Side rails no wider than 12″ and must be 6″ minimum above floor. Cage can be bolted welded or chained in BUT MUST BE SAFE! NO KICKERS ANYWHERE!
(2) DRIVE TRAIN: Any motor and transmission may be used, AFTERMARKET MOTOR MOUNTS ALLOWED BUT MUST HAVE RUBBER BUSHING IN THEM! If you run stock motor mounts you are allowed (2) 3/8 chain to hold engine down with only one link welded to frame no other links welded together. If you choose to run aftermarket mounts no chains allowed to tie engine down. You may run any rear end, bracing of the rear end is fine but no bracing extending to the frame. Must use stock control arms. Slider drive shafts are allowed.
(3) TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER: You MAY run any stock car crossmember welded or bolted in (NO 03 AND UP CROSS MEMBERS ALLOWED). 2X2X6 ANGLE FOR MOUNTING ONLY NO OTHER ADDED METAL. TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER MUST BE MOUNTED IN STOCK LOCATION NO MODIFICATIONS TO STRENGTHEN THE CAR. ANGLE IRON IS NOT TO BE USED TO STRENGTHEN THE CAR ONLY TO HOLD UP CROSS MEMBER.
(4) REAR SUSPENSION: WATTS CONVERSION ALLOWED with 2 individual upper brackets and max 3x3x1/4×6 tube allowed for lower mounts. You are allowed two (2) chains; one per side around the frame and around the rear end to set your height. LOADED TRAILING ARMS ALLOWED OR AFTERMARKET WATTS BRACKETS ALLOWED BUT NOTHING WELDED SOLID MUST HAVE MOVEMENT. Other than that, EVERYTHING must be stock. INCLUDING STOCK SHOCKS NO ALL THREAD SHOCKS. The rear end can be no lower than 16″. Factory leaf spring cars must use factory leafs the car came from the factory with no relocation of frame mounts. NO COIL TO LEAF CONVERSIONS
(5) FRONT SUSPENSION: You are allowed (2) 2″x 6″x 1/8″ straps per side to hold your suspension where you want it; 3″ on the side of the frame & 3″ on the A-arm. DO NOT GET CREATIVE. NO AFTERMARKET PARTS AT ALL! DIRECT BOLT ON A-ARM AND SPINDLE SWAPS ARE ALLOWED BUT NO MODIFICATIONS TO MAKE THEM WORK OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!
(6) PROTECTORS: Lower cradle ONLY. PULLY protectors ARE ALLOWED BUT IF YOU HAVE A PULLY PROTECTOR YOU HAVE TO REMOVE SWAY BAR.. nothing can be tied. SBC to Mopar must not be solid plate on k-member (2) 6″ plates for mounting. MUST be bolted to k-member NOT welded.
(7) BUMPERS: You may run any bumper. You may load or plate and seam weld, OR you may run a homemade bumper. BUT THIS CANNOT exceed 6″x 6″ x 1/2″ tubing, with no more than a 4″ point over a 32″ spread. You may either hard nose and run a 4″x 5″x 1/4″ plate from bumper back, OR you run a stock shock and bracket for the car you are running in stock manner. NO WELDING IF IT WASN’T WELDED FACTORY! Max bumper height is 22″ from bottom of bumper.
(8) FRAME: ONLY WELDING ALLOWED ON FRAME is your bumper strap, if you choose to use it, and one pass weld 1/2″ wide on frame seam from front of A-arm bracket forward (unless stated otherwise.) NO MODIFICATION TO FRAME TO CREAT A SEAM! NO TILTING/COLD BENDING! FRAME MAY ME SHORTENED TO 1 INCH IN FRONT OF CORE SUPPORT MOUNTS!
(9) REPAIRS: You are allowed (6) 4″x 6″x 1/8″ to repair any damage, (4) ALLOWED CENTER OF CAR FORWARD, (2) ALLOWED CENTER OF CAR BACK BUT MUST BE VISIBLE BEND. Any other repairs MUST be approved by (DEREK). RESTUBBING A PRE RAN IS FINE BUT MUST BE SAME MAKE AND MODEL SWAP BUTT WELDED WITH A 2 INCH WIDE STRAP AROUND 1/8TH INCH THICK
(10) STEERING: ALL STEERING STOCK EXCEPT AFTERMARKET TIE RODS ALLOWED BUT MUST HAVE FACTORY STYLE ENDS NO HEIM JOINT ENDS.
(11) BODY: NO SEDAGONS/NO FRAME SHAPING
• GENERAL: Anything can be removed, NOTHING can be added. Fasten trunks, hoods, tail gates in (6) places, (2) being your all thread through the frame and the other (4) can be wired or bolted sheet metal only. You may weld doors solid with 3″X 1/8″ strap only. TRUNKS MAY HAVE (4)-3X5X1/8 STRAP WELDED AS PART OF YOUR 6 SPOTS TO TIE IT DOWN! Body mounts may be changed, BUT must have 1″ spacers and NO bigger than 3/4″ bolts, with washers no bigger than 3″x 1/4″.NO ADDING MOUNTS! Max of (10) 3/8 bolts through hood to hold outer skin and inner support together.
• TRUNK: You are allowed (2) 3/4″ all thread through frame & trunk with washers no bigger than 6″.
• FENDERS: You are allowed (4) 3/8″ bolts washers no bigger than 1″ in each wheel opening.
• CORE SUPPORT: MUST REMAIN STOCK! You are allowed (2) 3/4″ all thread through factory core support mounts with 6″ washers max. CORE SUPPORT SPACERS 3X3X5 MAX!! THESE CANNOT BE WELDED TO THE TOP OF THE FRAME! DO NOT ADD ANYTHING ELSE!
(12) WHEEL/TIRES: NO SPLIT RIMS, NO PADDLE TIRES (this means tires with cups). Full weld in centers are allowed. Bead protectors are fine but no full sidewall protectors allowed!
(13) RADIATOR: Must remain in stock location. ONLY thing allowed in front of the radiator is the a/c condenser. You can use (4) 3/8″ bolts with washer, NO bigger than 2″, to fasten condenser.
(14) WINDOW BARS: You must have a minimum of one spot of No. 9 wire on each side from cowl to roof. You are allowed up to 2″x 2″x 1/4″ square round tubing, 6″ on the cowl/SPEAKER DECK, 6″ on the roof. THESE ARE FOR SAFETY ONLY! DO NOT TRY AND REINFORCE ANYTHING WITH THEM!
(15) NO. 9 WIRE: Nothing in front of the radiator. Four (4) strands up front of core support to bumper. Four (4) spots in back & must be sheet metal to sheet metal. You can weld a 3/4″ washer on sheet metal to run your No. 9 through.
(WITH THE EXCEPTION OF 112″ WHEELBASE OR LESS, AND 4 OR 6-CYLINDER ENGINES)
REMINDER: NO GRAY AREAS! IF YOU DON”T SEE IT, DON’T DO IT!
(1) SAFETY CAGE: 6-point max cage is recommended. Cage cannot extend any further back than the beginning of the wheel wells. Halo bar is not mandatory, is BUT IS STRONGLY recommended. Halo must be vertical and cannot be used for anything but roof support. You are allowed six down tubes to the frame NO BIGGER THAN3″X3″; front two must be even with or behind front inner door seam. Middle two must be beside the seats for safety. Rear two must be in front of rear body mounts on flat part of frame. Gas tank protector allowed, No bigger than 24” W x 24” H. Must be vertical, with no big angles, and may be touching sheet metal. Front cage bar must be 6″ above transmission tunnel and 6″ away from center of dash. Side rails no wider than 12″ and must be 6″ minimum above floor. Cage can be bolted welded or chained in BUT MUST BE SAFE! NO KICKERS ANYWHERE!
(2) DRIVE TRAIN: Any drivetrain is permitted. No protectors other than carb and header AT ALL.
(3) REAR SUSPENSION: NO LEAF CONVERSIONS! Leaf sprung cars must have working shackles IN STOCK LOCATION and must be FACTORY springs for that car. You are allowed four (4, 2 PER SIDE) 2″ wide 1/4″ thick x 4 1/2″ long leaf spring clamps no bigger than 3/8 bolts. Struts/Shocks/Control arms can be stuffed or plated or can use 2″x2″ square tubing but must have pivot & travel. ALL-THREAD STRUTS NO BIGGER THAN 1″. You may chain the rear end around the packing tray or the humps. NO WELDING. Minimum rear bumper height 16″ to the bottom of the bumper. HUMP PLATES 22″x1/4″ THICK CENTERED MUST CONTOUR TO THE FRAME AND NO WIDER THAN FRAME ITSELF.
(4) FRONT SUSPENSION: Suspension MUST BE stock other than aftermarket ball joints & tie rods, NO switching brackets, A-arms MUST BE direct bolt on without welding modifications. You may have (2) 1/8″ x 2″ x 6″ straps per side on A-arms 3″ on outside of frame 3″ on A-arm. NO BALL JOINT STOPS, NO ADDED METAL. Front bumper maximum height to the bottom of the bumper 20″. (EXCEPTIONS on pre-ran bent cars.) On spindles you are allowed to add a piece of 1″ round or square stock to the back of the spindles between ball joints for support. You may also substitute your shocks/struts for 1″ all-thread.
(5) PROTECTORS: You can run your protectors (carb/header/rearends), BUT for the sole purpose of protecting your carb, headers and rear end from damage. They cannot be in contact with ANYTHING that will help hold them in place or help the car in any way, other than your motor mounts. They cannot be welded in solid. They must have a working motor mount, meaning there must be rubber somewhere in the mount where the motor or transmission can twist. NO RADIATOR PROTECTORS.
(6) BUMPERS: You may run ANY stock style car bumper, you may load it, weld it, plate it, BUT YOU CANNOT CHANGE THE FORMATION FROM STOCK. Homemade bumpers are allowed BUT CANNOT exceed 6″x 6″ x 1/2″ tubing, with no more than a 4″ point over a 32″ spread. You can do one of two options; hard nose to the front frame with a 10″x 4″x 3/8″ strap from bumper back OR be welded to the factory shocks. Factory shocks CANNOT be relocated. They can be cut off even at the frame and weld to both, NO OTHER COMBINATIONS. You may shorten front frame back to front side of body mount. You must be able to run your 1″ all-thread through the factory body mount holes WITHOUT manipulating it.
(7) FRAME: NO FRAME SHAPING! Pre-bending and tilting allowed. You can cut or notch rear frame rails BUT CANNOT re-weld or plate your cuts. You are allowed one pass of 1/2″ wide weld on main frame seams ONLY. No welding of any brackets, or anything that’s not a main frame seam. Subframe only, not structure sheet metal (body) frame. NO SEAM WELDING SHEET METAL AT ALL.
(8) REPAIRS: For any frame repairs due to rust, you must cut out the damage, cut out the exact piece and butt weld back in, same thickness as frame.
•SHEET METAL: You must cut out damage and only overlap 1″ with same thickness of metal.
•BENDS: You are allowed up to six (6) 4″x 6″ x 1/4″ to repair BUT MUST BE VISIBLE DAMAGE. Repair plates must be a minimum of 1″ apart, including welds.
(9) BODY:
•HOOD: Must have 4″ hole on each side of carburetor. You are allowed (10) 3/8″ bolts with the max of 1″ washer to bolt your hood skin back together. You are allowed 6 spots to tie your hood down, (2) 1″ all-thread that can go through the frame with no bigger than 3″ x 1/4″ thick washers on the frame. They cannot be welded in ANY The other 4 tie downs have to be sheet metal to sheet metal, 6″ angle bolted together, OR all thread with washers NO bigger than 6″x 1/4″. All thread cannot be attached to sheet metal more than 6″ TOTAL. No other welding on strut towers.
•TRUNK: You can concave/dish your trunk lid down, but must be 10″ off upper trunk floor above frame rails (NOT the low setting sump of the trunk). You are allowed two (2) 1″ all thread through the frame washers NO bigger than 6″x 1/4″. You may weld trunk seam 5 on 5 off with strap no wider than 3″x 1/8″.
•FENDERS: You are allowed (6) 3/8″ bolts with washers no bigger than 1″ per wheel opening. Creasing is allowed, but NO over lapping of metal.
•DOORS: Can be welded solid with 3″ wide x 1/8″ thick strap, BUT DO NOT load the door seams. You may plate driver and passenger front doors from seam to seam with 3/16″ or less. THIS IS FOR DRIVER AND RIDER SAFETY ONLY!
•CORE SUPPORT: Must remain stock, NO PLATING OR STUFFING. Spacers for all thread, if needed, cannot exceed 3″x 3″x 1/4″. You may weld the spacers to the front mount and top of frame ONLY, and can only go to bottom of core support where factory mount was NOT all the way to the hood.
•BODY MOUNTS: Body mounts may be removed and replaced with 3/4″ or smaller all-thread with washers no bigger than 3″ MUST be though original body mount holes WITHOUT any modifications.
(10) WHEEL/TIRES: NO SPLIT RIMS, NO PADDLE TIRES (Tires with cups). Full weld in centers are allowed, as well as bead locks or screws, BUT must be on inside bead ONLY.
(11) RADIATOR: Radiator must be in stock location, no reinforcing of core support. NO RADIATOR PROTECTORS!
(12) WINDOW BARS: You must have a minimum of one spot of No. 9 wire on each side from cowl to roof. You are allowed up to 2″x 2″x 1/4″ square round tubing or 3″ flat 3/8, 6″ on the cowl, 6″ on the roof. These MAY NOT come in contact with any protector at any time and nothing can go to strut tower. Back bar has to be mounted on speaker deck, not on trunk lid, and only 6 inch on the roof, welded or bolted. Nothing else can come within 6” of window bars, PERIOD!
(13) NO. 9 WIRE: Unlimited No. 9 from bumper to core support, and bumper to trunk lid. Wagons, you are allowed three (3) sets of three (3) wraps of No. 9 per window opening. You can add 3/4″ washers to the body for No. 9 to go through. NOTHING in front of radiator, No. 9 can’t be attached or come in contact with braces/motor/trans. You cannot tie No. 9 into the cage.
(14) PEDALS/BATTERY BOXES: Must be 2″ away from tranny tunnel and 2″ from front body mounts. MUST NOT BE USED TO REINFORCE CAR BY ANY MEANS. No bolting sub up to battery box or pedal setup, no extra sub frame bolts at all other than factory.
REMINDER: THERE ARE NO GRAY AREAS FOR ANY CLASSES! IF YOU DON’T SEE IT IN THE RULES, DON’T DO IT TO YOUR CAR!
Greene County Fair Compact Demolition Derby Rules
COMPACT
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. ALL RULES MUST BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN
2. Drivers & Riders must wear seat belt, helmet, fire suit jacket, and long pants while participating.
3. ALL drivers & Riders must attend the drivers meeting.
4. During event you are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit or will be disqualified.
5. You MUST run a roof sign.
6. Drivers & Riders are not allowed to drink alcohol before they participate. If found with alcohol in system you will
not run, no exceptions. ZERO TOLERANCE RULE!!!
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T
SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T!
Show Rules:
1. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is 1minute total. An aggressive hit is
solely at the discretion of the officials.
2. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVERS DOOR!!
3. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
4. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
5. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason.
6. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light. You may not pin to win!
Car Preparation:
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except
where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. No painting in the interior of the car.
2. 108” max factory wheelbase on all vehicles in this class.
4- and 6-cylinder engines only. NO SUVs or Trucks.
3. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
4. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
5. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
6. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered. If you have a
rider they must be in a safe place, secured & covered.
Factory Fuel tank, oil coolers, transmission coolers must be removed
7. You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have at least the size of a15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car.
8. All cars must have working brakes when you come for inspections. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run!!
Cage & Inside of Car
• All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for a specific rule smaller. It must also be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Side bars may be 6” x 12” including roll over may be a max length of 62 inches long
• RWD cars may run down bars straight down and over to the body mount washer. These must remain separate.
• You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than to your cage. Cannot exceed 24” wide and must be centered in the vehicle. It can angle in from your halo bar, it must be 4” off floor sheet metal and 1” from rear sheet metal. Must stay on interior of car.
• A well-made metal fuel cell (no plastic tanks) is required, and it must be mounted to your gas tank protector only.
• Fuel line must be ran inside the car and secured properly.
• Engine oil coolers and transmission coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. Cooler mounting may be to sheet metal or cage mount only (not both).
• Floor mounted pedals are permitted. They must be 2” from any body mount or cage
components.
• Batteries may be mounted to the cage or to the floorboard (not both). The battery box may not strengthen the vehicle in any way. Must be a minimum 2” from, frame, body mounts, and a minimum of 6” from any protectors.
• Cable shifters are permitted but may not be mounted in any way to strengthen the vehicle. Radiators when mounting the radiator, you must NOT reinforce the core support in any way.
No radiator guards are allowed. Radiator must be mounted in core support in factory location only. You may have 1/8” expanded metal that cannot extend past the front body mount bolts. May be attached with six 3/8” bolts or four 1” welds
Bumpers and Bumper Mounting
Option #1: Any seam welded OEM bumper may be ran as long as it has an unmodified skin front and back. It may be loaded, but all added material must remain inside the bumper.
Option #2: Homemade bumpers may be used as long as it falls under all of the following dimensions. The bumper may be built up to have a 14” point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the point, however the point itself may be no more than a factory Chrysler pointy itself and spanning over a
36” span across the bumper. (Will have a cut out template to follow.) They may be 8” tall unless loading an unaltered factory skin.
• You may trim bumper ends or fold them around.
• No welding bumper to the body or cross member in any fashion.
• Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and be a minimum
14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame.
• Bumpers must be mounted in stock location.
• Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from core support/trunk lid to bumper (not
frame). These cannot be placed in-front of the radiator.
• No more than one set of OEM car bumper shocks/brackets may be used per bumper. Rear
bumper brackets must be OEM for the vehicle you are running.
• You can weld bumper brackets/towers to the bumper and to the frame.
• No brackets are allowed any further back than the first 16” of the frame.
• Instead of using bumper brackets, you are allowed to use 1-4” wide x 3⁄8” thick strap extending
from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extended further back than the first 16” of the frame. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 3” to create an “L” shape, this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be formed to fit the frame, but it may not be doubled up at any point. 4” width includes forming. REAR BUMPER BRACKETS: Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame.
Frame
• No frame swaps. Frame must be factory for your car.
• Unibody vehicles may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the core support / body
mount hole. If it is a weld on mount, leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it, you will not run.
• No shortening the rear rails or center of the vehicle.
• You are only allowed to weld the factory frame seams from the front side of the firewall forward with a single 1⁄2” bead. On a unibody car you can weld the cross member (K-member/subframe) seams and the main unibody seam but do not weld the two together. No welding of inner fenders, strut towers or anything else. You may not beat the lip over and weld it (example fox body mustang)
• Coil sprung cars will be allowed 20” hump plates. 1⁄4” thick 3” wide contoured to the frame. They must be centered in the rear axle no cheating to one side or another. Must have 2 half inch inspection holes drilled in them.
• Rust repair- Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly
to the hole size maybe butt welded in (same thickness). NO RE STUBBING CARS AT ALL
• No frame shaping is allowed.
• No tilting or altering of the frame in any way.
• Do not shape your humps.
• You may run 4 loops of #9 wire or 1 loop of 3⁄8” chain from frame rail to frame rail underneath the back of the vehicle, behind rear end. This may go around the frame, or it may go through a factory hole in frame, or you can weld 1-3⁄8” chain link to the inside rail of the frame to run the wire through. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Suspension and Steering
• Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame.
• Aftermarket stock replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed. Tie rod tubes may be reinforced.
• A-arms-
ª Must be factory for the vehicle you are running
ª May be seam welded.
ª Must be bolted on in a factory manner.
ª May be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced.
ª If bolted, you may use 1 3⁄4” bolt per a-arm if choosing to bolt.
ª If welded, you may use 2-2x4x1/4” straps per a-arm. This strap must be welded to the a-arm and cannot be farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-arm.
• Struts must be factory for the vehicle you are running. Must mount with factory mounting brackets and be stock appearing. You may reinforce the inside of the strut and are allowed
(1)2x4x1/8” strap to weld on each strut used for height, weld to strut only.
• Steering box, pitman arm, and idler arm are interchangeable with vehicles that are legal for this class. Must bolt on in factory manner.
• Spindles and hubs must be stock for a vehicle that is legal in this class. You may weld 1- 6”x 3⁄4” rod to the back side of the spindle.
• Sway bar must be mounted in stock location and stock manner. No welding of sway bar or mounts
• No leaf spring conversions- PERIOD.
• Leaf springs must be made of stock spring material with a 1” stagger, front and back. No springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can have a total of 7 leaf springs per side, no thicker than 5/16” thick and 2 3⁄4” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and lead spring must go down from longest to shortest. You can re-clamp springs, 4 clamps per side. Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2x4x1/4”, while using up to 1⁄2” bolts. Must have a 2” arch in
your springs. Must mount leafs to the factory mounting brackets. Brackets may be welded on, do not relocate them.
• Coil springs can be changed to a stiffer spring or put spacer in sagging coil springs. You can wire, or chain springs to rear end to prevent springs from falling out.
• Rear shocks may be replaced with 1” max all-thread.
• You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3⁄8” chain or 4 loops #9 wire) from rear end to frame in one spot on each side. Must go around frame, do not bolt chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld 1 link of chain per side of frame, if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
• You may use rear end of choice but must be no more than 8 lugs. Welded or posi-trac highly recommended. Braces are welcome, may not extend more than 3” past the housing. Brace must
not reinforce your frame. Rear end control arms can be reinforced but must start from a stock set. The factory bracket must attach in stock location for the vehicle you are running.
• Slider drive shafts and CV shafts are permitted.
Tires/Wheels Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Doubled tires and Solid Tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. Bead locks are permitted in this class. Bead locks may be no more than 20” in diameter and can be on inside of tire only.
Motor, Transmission and Engine Cross Member
• You may use a 4- or 6-cylinder engine of your choice, must be mounted in stock location in a stock manner.
• Motor mounts can be replaced but must remain factory style. Reinforcing of the mounts is permitted but must still have a bolt as a pivot point. Mounts may be welded solid with (1) 4”x6”x1⁄4” thick plate per side. Mounts (other than upper FWD) must go to engine cross member, not to the frame. Top side FWD mounts may be welded on one side but must pivot on the other (do not weld the mounts together).
• Full engine cradles are allowed but must be 6” from any cage components and 6” from the core support.
• All engine cradle components must be 3” away from the frame rails and body on RWD vehicles, a minimum of 1” away from the frame rails and body on FWD cars and may not strengthen the frame in any way. Pulley protectors are allowed but may not extend your water pump. Only 12 inches may contact the firewall.
• Transmission brace, aftermarket bell housing, aftermarket tail shafts, and skid plates are allowed.
• Transmission braces must be contoured to the transmission. On FWD cars, must be a minimum
1” from frame. Transmissions and braces must be a minimum of 4” from any cage components.
• The factory transmission cross member must be in the stock location for the vehicle you are running. You may replace the transmission cross member on RWD cars with one straight piece
of 2”x2”x1/4” max tube. Tube can be welded with a single piece of angle iron (8” long 2”x2”, ¼” thick max) to each side of the frame. You must remove the stock mount if you run the angle iron.
The transmission cross member is the only way the transmission may be tied to the frame. Transmission may be bolted (may not be welded in any way) to the cross member with 2-5⁄8” bolts with 1.5” washers or you may wrap a chain around the transmission to the cross member.
MOD COMPACTS THAT ARE NOT RUNNING A FULL CRADLE or USING A LOWER CRADLE/TRANS BRACE
TO TIE THE FRAME RAILS TOGETHER WITH THE REPAIR PLATES.
You will be allowed 2 extra K Frame bolts. These may be 1” all thread and welded to the side of the frame or pass through the frame only in a vertical manner. NO manipulating the all thread.
— ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING ABOVE OR IF YOU DON’T HAVE A K FRAME TO TIE UP TO.
CALL ANDREW!!!! —
Trunk, Tailgates, Hood, Doors, and Body
• Body shaping is allowed to the exterior of the vehicle only. All panels must remain in factory position. Rear quarter panels and taillight valance must remain vertical.
• You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust max.
• You are allowed 2 strands up to 4 loops of #9 wire per window opening. May go around frame and through the roof sheet metal only. Do not use your cage in any way to support this.
• You may use up to 4-1⁄2” all thread to mount your radiator. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. You may use 2”x6” 1⁄8” thick flat steel welded to the core support to run your all thread through.
• No radiator or fan protectors allowed.
• Body bolts can be replaced with up to 1” bolts.
• K-frame cars are allowed to bolt the K-member to the frame solid with no spacer (no welding).
May have 1- 2x3x1/4” washer inside the frame and 1- 4x4x1/4” washer on top. Bolts must be up
inside the frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk all thread, this does not have to be up inside the frame.
• If running a core support spacer, must be 2x2x1/4” tubing welded to either the frame or body not both.
• Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added.
• Do not shorten the front of your car.
• Core support may not be relocated and must be bolted in factory location only.
• Hoods must have at least a 12” square hole in case of a fire. You are allowed 16-3⁄8” bolts with a washer of 1.25” to bolt hood seems.
• You are allowed 6 spots to hold your hood on. Your core support all thread may go through the hood and will count as 2 of the tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all thread, no longer than 8”. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only with a washer no bigger than 5x5x1/4” flush/level with the hood to support the hood pins. 5” max floating washers to
keep the hood shut.
• Fenders may be bolted back together with no more than 6-3⁄8’’ bolts with a 1.25” diameter washer. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support, do not exceed 4-3⁄8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt together.
• Do not alter the firewall in any way.
• For safety, all cars must have 2 bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall. The straps cannot be any larger than 3⁄8”x3” flat strap. Do not connect these bars in any manner. These bars way be welded/bolted to 3”x5” plates. Plates and bars must stay within 5” of the windshield opening. Must be a minimum of 3” from any protectors and cage.
• Rear Window Bar is allowed. Must be a straight piece of 2”x 2”x ¼” max material. 5”x5”x1/4” max mounting plates are allowed top and bottom. Must remain within 5” of the window opening and must be 3” minimum for any part of the cage. (Halo, fuel cell protector etc.)
• You may weld your doors and trunk shut with no larger than 3”x1/8” flat strap (do not overlap). Only exterior seams may be welded. If you choose to bolt or wire or doors shut, must be done in a minimum of 6 locations.
• You may fold the tops of the doors over and weld the inner to outer (no added metal).
• You are allowed to skin the driver’s door with 3/16” thick sheet metal for safety reasons. It may not extend further than 3” past the door seams.
• You can fold hoods or trunk lids over. Do not slide your hood or trunk lids forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids may be shaped but must remain 8” off the floor.
• 2-1” all thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame. You may pass through a factory body mount hole or weld 3” to the side of the frame.
• May use up to a 5”x5”x1/4” floating washer on top of the trunk lid.
• Do not remove the speaker deck.
• Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. If you choose not to run a rear bumper on a wagon, you may drop the tailgate straight down welded to the body only.
ALL RULES ABOVE MUST BE FOLLOWED.
Repair Plate Rules:
Fresh Cars: (4) 6x6x1/8”
Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max.
They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all
Pre Ran: (8-6x6x1/8”
Plates must be 1-inch apart including the weld; 1⁄2” weld max.
They cannot touch or be attached to the driveline components at all.
QUESTIONS CALL ANDREW 618-407-9069
**Once plates are on the frame, you may not cut them off and move them*
Greene County Fair Gut N Go Demolition Derby Rules
GUT N GO COMPACT
General Rules & Expectations:
1. ALL RULES MUST BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN
2. Drivers & Riders must wear seat belt, helmet, fire suit jacket, and long pants while participating.
3. ALL Drivers & Riders must attend the drivers meeting.
4. During event you are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit or will be disqualified.
5. You MUST run a roof sign.
6. Drivers & Riders are not allowed to drink alcohol before they participate. If found with alcohol in system you will not run, no exceptions. ZERO TOLERANCE RULE!!!
7. Andrew Wadlow 618-407-9069 call before you assume something will pass. If it is not in the rules and doesn’t tell you, you can do it, then don’t! We can’t stress that enough!! CALL FIRST!!! THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T!
Show Rules:
1. You have 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that car is disqualified. That is 1minute total. An aggressive hit is
solely at the discretion of the officials.
2. For safety, DO NOT HIT THE DRIVERS DOOR!!
3. You are given 2 fires- 1st one we put out and the 2nd one you are done for that round.
4. Rollovers- you may keep going as long as car is deemed safe.
5. Watch the officials. If they are trying to get your attention, there is a reason.
6. No holding or pinning, you must back up and show day light. You may not pin to win!
THIS IS A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR.
IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T!!!
Car Preparation:
NO PAINTING OR UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRIDING FRAMES OR BODIESEXCEPT WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICIALLY ALLOWED IN THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF THE BODY OR CAR. IF THIS IS DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. May be any 1980’s and newer front- wheel drive car (Wheelbase up to 112”) with a V4 or V6 engine and must be the original engine for that car. No modifications or carb conversions of any kind.
2. Remove all glass, mirrors, plastic, outside body chrome & turn signals. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris. Also, must remove ALL carpet, dash, headliner, rear seats, and any other flammable materials.
3. ZERO crease enhancement, ZERO sheet metal or frame shaping, forming or folding.
4. Hoods must be 100% in stock location and open for inspection. Must have a minimum 12” opening on hood in case of a fire.
5. Hoods may be fastened in 4 places. 2 places with the core support all thread and 2 places with 2 strands of #9 wire. Trunks may be fastened in 4 places with 2 strands of #9 wire only, no all thread.
You may weld doors 6 inches total on each vertical seam only 2”x1/8” Strap. Drivers door may be welded 12 inches total on vertical seams only 2” x 1/8” strap. Do not weld hood or trunk!
6. Body mounts and spacers to remain stock and in place. If they are broken or rusted out, a single piece #9 wire may be substituted. No body bolt changing allowed. DO NOT EVEN TOUCH THEM!!!
Exception: You may replace two front body mounts with two 5/8″ threaded rod with eight 3-inch washers and 4 nuts, Bottom nut and washer must be inside frame and may extend through hood. ZERO welding allowed to mount this rod.
7. #9 wire or chain required in front windshield.
8. Battery must be relocated to the interior of the vehicle and properly secured and covered. If you have a passenger please make sure its in a safe place, secured & covered.
9. Must disable airbags.
10. Gas tanks MUST be moved behind the seat in the center. All fuel lines running inside the car must
be covered. Original gas tanks are not allowed, must be an aftermarket metal or aluminum fuel cell. Gas tanks must be mounted 8-inches off the floor and all sheet metal.
11. 4-point square cage only 60” max in length with one 2×3 down tube to sheet metal only per side.
Max 60-inch side bars 6-inch max. Halo bar is MANDATORY and must be attached to the backseat bar and floor sheet metal.
• Gas Tank Protector: (Highly Recommended)
Dimensions: 24 inches wide, 24 inches long, 6 inches tall & 8 inches from everything including the rear and floor sheet metal.
12. Mandatory: Driver’s doors must be padded and have a bar or plate on driver’s door that is at least 3/16-inch-thick but no more than ONE inch thick- on the inside, outside or both for safety. Plate or Bar must cover the door, not less than 6 inches and not more than 10 inches past each front
and rear seams. (NO grader blades, channel iron or I-beams allowed). IF you have a passenger please follow the same rules for the passengers door.
13. Must use factory pedals, brakes and steering wheel.
• You are allowed an aftermarket shifter; it may not be mounted in any way that strengthens the car.
Everything else must be factory for the year, make and model of the car you are running.
14. You may weld any stock factory car bumper and you may weld the stock bumper bracket for the
car or the bumper to the frame 4 inches from the back of the bumper, single pass only. In addition, you may weld (4) one-inch welds on the back side of the bumper. All bumper material longer than 4” back must be removed.
• Shocks may be collapsed and welded. All shocks and brackets in stock location only and extended one inch in front of frame. Again, all bumper brackets and shocks must be in stock location.
• Or you may shorten to one inch in front of the core support space and hard
nose with no shocks or brackets on car.
• Or you may chain, one piece of chain per side BOLTED from the mount to mount to hold on the bumper.
Instead of a loaded factory bumper you may use a piece of 4”x4”x1/4” flat tubing in its place with original bumper shocks for the car you are running. NO POINT.
15. Any tires are fine, including solid rear forklift tires. You may weld in full centers but no other
bracing or supports allowed on the wheels. ONLY welding allowed is doors, bumpers & cage.
This build should only take 3 days, if you spend more than that you are overbuilt for this class.
If you call me on these, the answer is most likely NO!
Simple rules, simple build- keep it that way!
DO NOT get “creative” or read into these rules, lets get back to the basics.
*PATCH PLATES- 2-6X6X1/8 PLATES ON PRE RAN CARS ON A BEND
Again, if it is not clearly described above, it is not allowed.
IF THE RULES DO NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT, YOU CAN’T!!!!!